Despite a weak U.S. economy, mass skin care
sales grew 3.4% to $1.5 billion for the 52 weeks ended
Feb. 23 in food, drug and mass merchandisers (excluding
Wal-Mart), according to Information Resources Inc.
Increased consumer education had
a hand in the growth, according to many skin care
marketers. An increase in the number of baby boomers
reaching for anti-aging products also contributed to the
Certain segments of the category
were more popular purchases than others. For example,
facial cleansers and moisturizers declined in mass, down
by 0.9% to $534 million and by 1.7% to $258 million
respectively in food, drug and mass merchandisers. On
the other hand, acne treatments bloomed 12.9% to $262
million, while skin fade/age/bleach creams also grew an
impressive 12.9% to $360 million, according to IRI
And according to NPD Group, Port
Washington, NY, prestige, always the lion's share of
skin care, fared impressively with $1.9 billion in sales
during 2002-up 3% from the previous year.
this growth in either mass or class, even the big guys
need to stay on their toes. Witness Procter &
Gamble, which garnered $105 million in facial cleansers
and $88 million in facial moisturizers for the year
ended Feb. 23, according to IRI. But it's not enough to
be a household name, according to P&G executives;
continuing innovation is the key to staying on top in
this competitive category.
For instance, although
P&G has been the top skin care marketer for decades,
the company fell somewhat short in the cleansing
area-until it introduced Olay Daily
"When we launched Olay Daily Facials
cleansing cloths (three years ago), we were No. 6 in
cleansers," revealed Michael Kuremsky, marketing
director, Olay skin care. "Daily Facials took us to the
No. 1 spot in facial cleansing in mass, and we've held
that position for the last three years."
spring, Daily Facials got a facelift. "We reinvented our
Daily Facials line with a customized approach," said Mr.
Kuremsky. "A lot of cloths have come onto the market
since we launched Daily Facials, but we're the only line
that offers a customized cleansing based on skin type."
This change was prompted by new information from
dermatologists indicating that "improperly cleansing the
face is the second leading cause of skin damage," second
only to sun damage, Mr. Kuremski said. The cloths cater
to either dry, combination-oily or sensitive skin.
Olay also offers new products in the
moisturizing category. The brand launched Regenerist, a
"technological breakthrough" that includes an amino
peptide ingredient, Mr. Kuremsky said. A penta-peptide
(chain of five amino acids) "works at the cellular level
and transforms skin without having to do something more
invasive, like a treatment in a doctor's office," he
explained. "The product is very high-end and
sophisticated; it's for the highly-involved skin care
user. This customer is willing to pay for significant
benefits and is really interested in the process of how
her products work."
Olay's Total Effects got a
lift as well, with new Total Effects 7X, an upgraded
formulation to the original moisturizer line. "We've
added an expanded ingredient package in the formula, so
now we have seven vitamins and minerals in the product,"
Mr. Kuremsky said. The product entered stores in
P&G also expanded a much older line:
Noxema cleansers. Still a cleansing favorite, Noxema now
|Estée Lauder's DayWear Plus
addresses skin-defense needs.|
"We focused Triple
Clean on younger women-college-age or young adults-among
whom cleansing is the primary focus," Mr. Kuremsky
explained. "Triple-Clean is antibacterial and delivers a
very clean rinse, so it doesn't overdry or clog pores."
An astringent and pads round out the family of Triple
Clean products, which entered stores this spring. Mr.
Kuremsky insisted that P&G has more surprises up its
sleeve, however. "We make innovation a real priority,"
he said, "so our customers will continue to see new
products from us in the near
The skin care
category is enormous, encompassing moisturizers, facial
and body cleansers, fade creams, depilatories and acne
treatments, to name just a few.
So where do
marketers start when appealing to their customers to try
something new? Typically, with a good cleansing
Executives at Simply Skin, Reno, NV,
said that cleansing is often an overlooked aspect of
skin care. The proper cleanser is critical to taking
care of the skin, according to Lori Carlile, president
Following P&G's success with
Daily Facials, a rash of cleansing cloths appeared on
the market, but these copy-cat versions don't always
stack up, according to Ms. Carlile. "People gravitate
toward skin cloths and cleansing pads because they want
a quick fix," she said. "This concept isn't new, but it
bypasses the whole skin care routine that the average
person needs. Some pads can be harsh and drying to the
In response, the skin kicks up its oil
production, causing some consumers to think they don't
need to follow up with a moisturizer. "It's a Catch-22,"
Ms. Carlile said.
|Olay Daily Facials were the
first skin-specific cleansing cloths on the
market. Today, the cloths are available in three
different formulas to cater to the consumer's
individual skin care needs.|
Simply Skin offers a
full range of cleansers, toners, moisturizers, creams,
masques and essential oils to cover all skin care bases.
But the routine is kept simple, with a goal of keeping
skin in peak condition utilizing as few products as
possible, Ms. Carlile said.
website, www.simplyskin. com, offers products for
purchase, as well as skin care tips, and consumers can
e-mail Ms. Carlile with questions. "What consumers need
is more education about skin care, as a system rather
than individual products, like a cleanser or a
moisturizer," she said.
PH Beauty Labs, Beverly
Hills, CA, takes cleansing seriously too, but puts a
playful spin on the process to encourage consumers to
get that all important clean.
introduced four new SKUs to its Totally Juicy line.
Tangerine Crackly clay masque "crackles" as it dries.
The Mango Taffy pore strip dispenses at an angle so that
the consumer can apply it only to the areas where it's
needed. Limon Foaming face slougher and Fruit Breeze
Tingling facial scrub round out the newest Totally Juicy
In the midst of subdued consumer
spending, pH Beauty Labs' Jill Freeman-Bucksbaum said
the company's playful approach paid off. "We fared well
(in 2002)," she said. "We don't have typical
moisturizers and cleansers per se; we have very targeted
items that are fun and interactive."
consumers need more than the standard cleansing; oily
skin, skin eruptions and acne (both teenage and adult
forms) are common complaints among consumers. In fact,
80% of all Americans are afflicted with acne at some
time during their lives, according to data from At Last
Naturals, Valhalla, NY.
To combat this problem,
At Last Naturals offers Sul-Ray Acne Treatment soap,
formulated with aloe vera to allow the skin to heal. The
soap is fragrance-free and contains no added
system is available in salons and
Also available from the
company is Sul-Ray Acne Treatment cream, a greaseless,
tinted cream that blends into the skin to heal existing
acne and help prevent new acne from forming.
York, NY-based emerginC introduced deglaze, a line that
helps the skin achieve a healthy pH level without
over-drying it, according to emerginC executives.
Deglaze includes an antibacterial cleanser containing
balsam and usnic acid; a camphor-, clove- and
peppermint-containing toner; a clay based mask; Crude
Control hydrating emulsion; Dessicator drying lotion in
regular or tinted formulas and Matt Velvet Dust, a
powder for oily and problem skin.
Skin Science, Springfield, NJ and Highland Park, NJ,
developed Dab Away, a fast-acting spot treatment for
oiliness and clogged pores, as part of its Daily
Maintenance program. Dab Away contains willowbark
extract, witch hazel, salicylic acid and allantoin. The
company also launched Oil Control cleanser to gently
purify pores and reduce excess oil with salicylic acid
and witch hazel distillate, while aloe, lavender,
chamomile and panthenol work to soothe and balance the
Catering to salon and beauty spa
professionals, DermaNew, Beverly Hills, CA, offers the
Acne and Oil Balancing system. The system features
AC.net, an exclusive ingredient complex, which is
applied with the DermaNew resurfacing tool, to fight
breakouts by reducing inflammation, bacterial
proliferation, oil production and cell buildup. DermaNew
executives said the system reduces comedones by more
than 30% and decreases the number of skin lesions by
35%. It also reduces overactive sebum production by
"This personal microdermabrasion system
gives (the spa professional's) clients a new way to
control their most common problems: acne and oily skin,"
said Amby Longhofer, founder, DermaNew. "In addition,
this kit provides a wonderful opportunity for
cross-selling services in the salon and spa by doing
dermo treatments during downtime." The kit retails for
|Boscia products deliver
"beauty from the inside out." The company offers a
full range of products.|
A Youthful Outlook
to industry experts, today's consumer is more active
than ever, and for a longer period of time;
"middle-aged" is becoming an outmoded term as
individuals stay physically active and young at heart
well into their 40s, 50s, 60s and beyond.
match a younger mindset, most consumers wish to have a
young appearance, and anti-aging products are more
popular than ever before.
"Looking toward the
future, what we will see is a lot of anti-aging
products," said Ms. Freeman-Bucksbaum of pH Beauty Labs.
"That's where consumers are going right now, and
marketers are giving them what they want and need."
With that in mind, pH Beauty Labs created
Botopical, a new skin care line that includes Eye
Repair, a brow and forehead smoother and a lip
treatment. The formulas plump up creases immediately
with an advanced microfusion complex, revealing a smooth
surface in a flash.
Pro-Med, a line of
dermatologist-tested, hypoallergenic products, is new
from Abbe Cosmetic Group International, Farmingdale, NY.
Pro-Med's SKUs feature retinol and retinyl palmitate
(vitamin A) in two active serums, a light, moisturizing
eye cream and a sheer, emollient face cream. Completing
the line are the Anti-Bruise cream, containing arnica
montana, emu oil, vitamin E, gamma linolenic and gamma
linoleic acids, and a Microdermabrasion cream and
In the prestige channel, Orlane has added
B21 Extreme Line Reducing Extract, the fourth product in
the company's Extreme treatment collection. The product
incorporates a proprietary compound called Memoxyle,
which includes isoflavone extracted from clover for
protein synthesis and beta glucan to counter free
The discerning consumer can spring into
skin care with Chanel's latest offerings. The company
plans a wealth of new products, including Eye Patch
Total, a hydrating treatment that contains ginseng
extract, scutellaria extract and marine proteins to
diminish the appearance of fine lines and puffiness. The
patches will arrive in-store next month.
June, Chanel will unveil a reformulated version of the
Le Corps Actif line, including Multi-Hydroxy body
moisturizier and Hydroxy hand cream.
on-shelf from Chanel is Précision Ultra Correction Eye
Anti Wrinkle Restructuring eye cream, a rich, hydrating
cream formulated to correct signs of aging around the
Babor Cosmetics, which is available through
spas, salons and the company's website, www.babor.com,
introduced Lifting Complex. "It's a very intensive
elasticity repair," explained Terissa Moulder, marketing
coordinator for Babor. "It was clinically proven to show
a 70% improvement in elasticity in three
Lifting complex offers a four-fold
approach: it moisturizes and tones; it stimulates cell
regeneration; it safeguards against free radicals and it
helps prevent the formation of new lines and wrinkles.
Babor also developed a shower gel with green tea
and ginkgo biloba. Both new products went on-shelf this
Valmont Labs executives agreed that
business in skin care was booming. "We've only been in
the U.S. for three years," said Charlotte Controu, U.S.
marketing director for Valmont, "so we're into the phase
where we're opening new accounts now. We keep on
Valmont's high-end products "are really
technical," Ms. Controu said. "We have a trainer and a
training program so that these products can be sold and
used correctly." In March, Valmont launched the Radiance
line, which blends vitamin C with GLA. "Radiance has
already been a huge success," Ms. Controu commented. "It
really gave a boost to our business." Valmont will
continue to innovate new combinations and concentrations
of clinically proven ingredients. For example, last
September Valmont launched the Eye Collagen treatment
and Lip treatment, and in December, it introduced the
Cellular DNA complex, a major innovation in skin
stimulation, Ms. Controu insisted.
"We are a very
high-end line," Ms. Controu said, "but the cost of any
product is only justified by the innovation and
technology that went into it. We have our own
plantations to make sure the plants we integrate are of
the best quality. We thoroughly research our products.
Once our clients try our products, they stay with them.
We offer products that give real results."
There is no
shortage of new releases in the prestige skin care
Skin care giant Estée Lauder
has evolved with the times to remain on top in the
prestige category. According to company executives
things have changed since 1995, when Lauder first
introduced DayWear Protective Anti-Oxidant complex, the
first skin care product scientifically proven to protect
the skin from environmental assaults. Now, "the
environment has changed," a Lauder spokesperson said.
The stratospheric ozone has thinned, while pollution has
increased. In response, Estée Lauder introduced DayWear
Plus Multi-Protection Anti-Oxidant Mois-turizer SPF 15,
with a combination of potent antioxidants and intense
hydrators in addition to enhanced SPF. The product is
available in oily, normal/ combination and dry skin
Lancôme's Absolue Eye replenishing eye
treatment is "a true eye opener," company executives
said. The treatment combines wild yam, soy and sea algae
to aid in restoring moisture, improving the skin's
firmness around the eye, diminishing the appearance of
fine lines and reviving skin clarity and radiance. In
addition, light diffusers help deflect
|Sea buckthorn, a time-tested
ingredient, has been updated by HR Labs, New
Lancôme's Vinéfit line
received a new addition this year as well: Vinéfit
Cleansing Bar Fresh facial cleanser with grape extracts.
The bar contains vitamins and grape extracts to help
skin feel smooth and refreshed.
Laurent (YSL) offers Age Expert, "a cosmetic alternative
to DHEA," company executives said. DHEA has been at the
center of attention for its skin benefits, but can
potentially enter into the hormone transformation
process, executives claimed.
As an effective
alternative, Age Expert contains Graction Ganodérique,
composed of patented ganoderic acids that have a
structure similar to DHEA. Age Expert activates the
skin's own resources, making the skin appear renewed.
YSL executives said that in just four weeks, the number
and length of many wrinkles can appear significantly
reduced, leaving the face visibly
YSL also offers Hydra Feel to
enhance skin hydration. Hydra-Feel contains the Vital-H
fraction, a patented complex created with the
fractionized extract of the desert shrub
Hyaluronic acid is combined with
these plant proteins to enhance hydration, while rice
peptides help stimulate, energize and oxygenate the
skin. Finally, specially-coated pigments emit two
different-colored reflections to reflect light rays,
visually "resculpting" undesirable curves.
focus on science has been balanced by a return to
natural products in today's skin care offerings, and in
many cases, together develop new formulations in skin
Boscia, an 18-SKU line, was introduced last
year by Fancl Corp., Irvine, CA. Products include a
basic skin care line; treatment products such as
Restorative Amino-3P firming treatment, Enlivening
Amino-AG eye treatment and Antioxidant Recovery
treatment C; "specialty helpers" such as a facial polish
and fresh blotting linens and supplemental items,
including Moisture Replenishing and Clear Complexion
Boscia has been highly successful,
according to company executives. The brand focuses on
educating the consumer on cleansing, moisturizing and UV
protection rather than simply offering the products
themselves, company executives said.
facial moisturizers still do not contain adequate UVA
and UVB protection," said Sara Parker, a spokesperson
for Boscia. "Women may be opting to use a sunscreen-only
product as their daytime protection. If moisturizers
have an SPF, that is an added benefit and needs to be
Tuscon, AZ-based Reborn Holistic
Skin Care takes a serious approach to skin care, company
executives said. For instance, the company has
introduced Reborn 24-Hour Anti-Aging cream. The product
is all-natural, containing ester C, vitamins A and E, a
special blend of Reborn's organic essential oils,
primrose, emu and squalene oils and aloe vera. The
product defends against premature aging, according to
Judi McMahon of the company.
The company also
introduced Reborn Skin Renewer, for both women and men.
Skin Renewer is available in 0.5-, 1- and refillable
1/3-oz. traveler sizes.
"Reborn Skin Renewer is
made from my special formula of 11 essential oils
including neroli, helichrusum, carrot seed, Roman and
German chamomile in a base of rosehip seed oil," Ms.
McMahon explained. "It contains no water, chemicals or
preservatives-just unadulterated essential oils that
renew the skin's elasticity and moisturize on a cellular
Future projects will include a Foot
Mender cream, which will contain anti-fungal agents.
Products are available through the company's website,
HR Laboratories, New York,
NY, combines back-to-basics ingredients with modern
sensibility, company executives said. New from the
company is Sea Buckthorn Professional Skin Therapy. "Due
to its unique chemical composition, sea buckthorn has
been used for centuries to heal wounds and burns, delay
skin aging, smooth, cure acne and moisturize dry skin,"
insisted Victoria Barsky of the company.
extract has been used for more than 2000 years, but "sea
buckthorn fruit extract and its many properties remain
fairly unknown in the U.S. market," said Ms. Barsky, "so
HR Laboratories has become an innovator in introducing
the consumer to this new, natural anti-aging
The company has also been busy with
other projects and has an aggressive long-term product
pipeline. Two new products will appear this fall: a Sea
Buckthorn body mist and Sea Buckthorn moisturizing
facial mask. HR Labs plans to roll out two new products
each year and will even include a "from the inside out"
concept with Sea Buckthorn Fruit Extract Softgel
A down-to-earth approach is evident in
Cowgirl Skincare, a nine-year old company that produces
such user-friendly products as Ranch Hand cream.
To get its message across, the company is
"currently working on better placement in stores and new
packaging designs" rather than developing new products,
according to Alexis Mayne. Ms. Mayne, self-proclaimed
"head wrangler" of Cowgirl, was recently handed the
reins by her mother, Donna Baase, who founded the
Some consumers want to get down to a
bare-bones basic skin care regimen; others desire
natural ingredients, while still others demand
scientific proof that products will work.
care marketers are now offering that proof from solid
studies, and are advertising products that do more than
just moisturize the skin.
French company RoC's
tagline, "We keep our promises," is reinforced in the
company's new Age Diminishing Daily moisturizer. In a
12-week double blind study, more than 85% of women who
used the product saw a visible improvement to their skin
in just two weeks, RoC executives said. Age Diminishing
Daily moisturizer is gentle, fast-absorbing and contains
soy complex, proven to help even out the appearance of
MD Formulations, San Francisco,
introduced the Alpha/Beta customized peeling system, and
the company has the numbers to back it up. Four-week
independent clinical studies were conducted on women
with moderately photo-aged skin.
that the peel alone demonstrated a 34% reduction in fine
lines and wrinkles, a 35% reduction in hyperpigmentation
and a 39% reduction in overall photo-aged damage. With
the addition of the Anti-Aging Intensifier, a 41%
reduction in lines and wrinkles and a 47% reduction in
overall photo-aged damage were observed. With the
Illuminating Intensifier, the peel revealed 40%
reduction in pigmentation and 43% reduced overall
photo-aged damage, while the Clearing Intensifier
increased the peel's effectiveness with a 35% reduction
in inflammatory acne lesions, a result not demonstrated
by the peel alone, executives said.
NY-based Doctor's Dermatologic Formula (DDF) delivers
quality skin care through doctors and esthetic
professionals, according to company executives.
DDF's extensive and very specific line includes
such products as Glycolic Toner 5; Medicated Skin
Cleanser 10% BP with Tea Tree, Pumice Acne scrub, Ultra
Barrier cream and EFP (environmentally-damaged cellular
degeneration) C3 serum.
DDF products address six
common skin concerns: acne/problem, sensitive/allergic,
hyper-pigmentation/discoloration, environmental damage,
cellular degeneration and scarring/stretch marks. DDF
recently introduced the 7-Day Radiance Peel kit, a
dermatologic blend of acids in a mix of vitamins;
Luminous Moisture Shelter SPF 15 and Tinted Matifying
Of all the current products in the
skin care market, industry experts agreed that one trend
is consistent: bringing visible results to the public
without necessitating more costly, out-of-home
procedures. "There has been a significant increase in
cosmetic procedures in the past few years," said Olay's
Mr. Kuremsky, "but penetration of these methods across
the U.S. is comparatively small. Not as many women as
you would think have actually had a (surgical) cosmetic
P&G aims to make quality skin
care affordable-and non-invasive. "We're always
innovating," said Mr. Kuremsky. "We're starting to close
the gap between topical home products and what you can
get in a doctor's office."
With a focus on
clinical trials and consumer input, cosmetic companies
strive to deliver high-quality results at a lower cost.
With continued innovation, the skin category will keep
Looking for a new ingredient for your
skin care product? A list of them can be found on p. 134
in the print version of Happi.